纺织英语第三版课本知识中文翻译.doc

,. Lesson Two Cotton Properties and Uses A relatively high level of moisture absorption and good wicking properties help make cotton one of the more comfortable fibers. Because of the hydroxyl groups in the cellulose, cotton has a high attraction for water. As water enters the fiber, cotton swells and its cross section becomes more rounded. The high affinity for moisture and the ability to swell when wet allow cotton to absorb about one-fourth of its weight in water. This means that in hot weather perspiration from the body will be absorbed in cotton fabrics, transported along the yarns to the outer surface of the cloth and evaporated into the air. Thus, the body will be aided in maintaining its temperature.相对较好的吸湿性和良好的芯吸性使棉纤维成为最舒适的纤维之一。因为纤维素的羟基基团，使得棉花对水有很强的吸引力。当水进入纤维棉，棉开始膨胀，其截面变得更圆。这种高度的亲水性和潮湿时溶胀的性能使棉花可吸水达到其重量的1/4左右。这意味着，在炎热的天气里，身体的汗液会被棉织物吸收，沿着纱线输送到衣物外表面并蒸发到空气中。因此，这对维持体温有帮助。 Unfortunately, the hydrophilic nature of cotton makes it susceptible to water-borne stains. Water-soluble colorants such as those in coffee or grape juice will penetrate the fiber along with the water; when the water evaporates, the colorant is trapped in the fiber. Perhaps the major disadvantage to cotton goods is their tendency to wrinkle and the difficulty of removing wrinkles. The rigidity of cotton fiber reduces the ability of yarns to resist wrinkling. When the fibers are bent to a new configuration, the hydrogen bonds which hold the cellulose chains together are ruptured and the molecules slide in order to minimize the stress within the fiber. The hydrogen bonds reform in the new positions, so that when the crushing force is removed the fibers stay in the new positions. It is the rupture and reformation of the hydrogen bonds that helps to maintain wrinkles, so that cotton goods must be ironed.遗憾的是，棉纤维的亲水性使得它容易受到水渍。如咖啡或葡萄汁的水溶性色素会随着水分渗入纤维；当水分蒸发后，着色剂会停留在纤维上。也许棉产品主要的缺点就是其会起皱以及难以抗皱。棉纤维的刚性使得纱线抗皱性能降低。当纤维弯曲成新的结构时，将纤维素链连结起来的氢键断裂，同时分子滑移以减少纤维中的应力。氢键在新的位置重键，因而挤压的外力去除，纤维停留在新的位置。正是氢键的断裂与重键使得织物保持褶皱，所以棉织物需要熨烫。 Cotton is a moderately strong fiber with good abrasion resistance and good dimensional stability. It is resistant to the acids, alkalies, and organic solvents normally available to consumers. But since it is a natural material, it is subject to attack by insects, molds and fungus. Most prominent is the tendency for cotton to mildew if allowed to remain damp.棉纤维是具有良好的耐磨性和尺寸稳定性，强度适中的纤维。它耐酸，耐碱以及有机溶剂，消费者普遍接纳。但由于它是一种天然物质，它受昆虫，霉菌和真菌攻击。最突出的是棉一旦放在持续潮湿的环境下会发霉。 Cotton resists sunlight and heat well, although direct exposure to constant strong sunlight will cause yellowing and eventual degradation of the fiber. Yellowing may also occur when cotton goods are dried in gas dryers. The color change is the result of a chemical reaction between cellulose and oxygen or nitrogen oxides in the hot air in the dryer. Cottons will retain their whiteness longer when line-dried or dried in the electric dryer.棉纤维耐光，耐热，尽管直接暴晒在持续的强光下会引起发黄，并最终引起纤维的降解。变黄也可能出现在棉产品被气体干燥剂干燥时。颜色的变化是纤维素和氧或二氧化氮在热空气中干燥的化学反应的结果。棉花自然挂干或烘干机烘干会长时间保持其白度。 Of major interest is the fact that cotton yarn is stronger when wet than when dry. This property is a consequence of the macro-and micro-structural features of the fiber. As water is absorbed, the fiber swells and its cross section becomes more rounded. Usually the absorption of such a large amount of foreign material would cause a high degree of internal stress and lead to weakening of the fiber. In cotton, however, the absorption of water causes a decrease in the internal stresses. Thus, with less internal stresses to overcome, the swollen fiber becomes stronger. At the same time, the swollen fibers within the yarns press upon each other more strongly. The internal friction strengthens the yarns. In addition, the absorbed water acts as an internal lubricant which imparts a higher level of flexibility to the fibers. This accounts for the fact that cotton garments are more easily ironed when damp. Cotton fabrics are susceptible to shrinkage upon laundering.值得关注的是，棉纱线在潮湿环境下比在干燥环境下强度更大。这种性质是棉纤维宏观和微观结构特征的结果。当水被吸收，纤维膨胀，其截面变得更圆。通常这种大量的外来物质的吸收会导致内部应力较高，导致纤维弱化。然而，棉纤维吸水导致内部应力减少。因此，减少克服内部应力，肿胀的纤维变得强度更大。同时，纱线中的溶胀纤维之间的互相挤压更强烈，内部的摩擦力增强了纱线强度。此外，所吸收的水作为一种内部润滑剂，赋予纤维较高水平的灵活性。这解释了棉衣物潮湿时更容易熨烫，棉织物洗水时易收缩。 Perhaps more than any other fiber, cotton satisfies the requirements of apparel, home furnishings, recreational, and industrial uses. It provides fabrics that are strong, lightweight, pliable, easily dried, and readily laundered. In apparel, cotton provides garments that are comfortable, readily dried in bright, long-lasting colors, and easy to care for. The major drawbacks are a propensity for cotton yams to shrink and for cotton cloth to wrinkle. Shrinkage may be controlled by the application of shrink-resistant finishes. Durable-press properties may be imparted by chemical treatment or by blending cotton with more wrinkle-resistant fibers, such as polyester.棉也许比其他任何纤维更能满足服装，家居家具，休闲和工业用途的要求。它提供了强度大，轻薄，柔软，快干，易清洗功能的织物。在衣物方面，棉带来了舒适、在光下快干、色彩持久、容易打理的服饰。它主要的缺点是棉纱线会缩水和棉布会起皱。缩水可以应用防缩后整理来控制。耐用性能可以通过化学处理或在棉纤维混纺中使用抗皱纤维，如涤纶来实现。 In home furnishings, cotton serves in durable, general-service fabrics. Although they may lack the formal appearance of materials made from other fibers, cotton goods provide a comfortable, homey environment. Cotton fabrics have been the mainstay of bed linens and towels for decades, because they are comfortable, durable, and moisture-absorbent. Polyester/cotton blends provide the modern consumer with no-iron sheets and pillowcases that retain a crisp, fresh feel.在家居用品中，棉产品担当了实用而全方位服务的织物。虽然他们可能没有其他纤维材质的美观，但棉织品（为我们）提供了一个舒适，温馨的环境。棉织物一直是几十年来的床单和毛巾的主要材质，因为他们非常舒适，耐用且具有吸湿性。涤/棉混纺织物为现代顾客提供了无须熨烫的床单和枕套，保持织物清新。 For recreational use, cotton has traditionally been used for tenting and camping gear, boat sails, tennis shoes and sportswear. Cotton is particularly well-suited for tent. A tent fabric must be able to "breath", so that the occupants are not smothered in their own carbon dioxide. Furthermore, exchange of air with the outside atmosphere reduces the humidity within the tent and keeps it from becoming stuffy. Fabrics woven from cotton can be open enough to provide good air permeability for comfort. Tents should also shed water, when wet by rain, cotton yarns swell, reducing the interstices between the yarns and resisting the penetration of water. Today, however, heavy canvas gear is being supplanted by light-weight nylon in tenting equipment.娱乐用途上，棉织物一向应用于帐篷和野营装备、船帆、运动鞋和运动服。棉织物特别适合制作帐篷。帐篷织物必须能够“呼吸”，让居住者不会被自己的二氧化碳窒息。此外，与外界空气的流通减少了帐篷里面的湿度并使它不变得那么闷热。棉的机织物可以充分拉开，它具有良好的透气性以供舒适。帐篷应该能使水分流走，当被雨水打湿，棉纱膨胀，减少纱线之间的间隙，提高防水性。然而，沉重的帆布齿轮将被轻质尼龙帐篷装备取代。 Cotton cord, twine and ropes are used in industry to bind, hold, and lash all kinds of things, from bales to boats. Cotton yarns are used to reinforce belts on drive motors and in work clothing. 棉线，麻绳和绳索被应用在捆绑、拉伸、鞭打各种物品的行业中，成捆吊上船。棉纱线用作电动机和工作服的加强带。 Lesson Five Structure and Properties of Wool Under the microscopic observation, the length of the wool fiber shows a scale structure. The size of the scale varies from very small to comparatively broad and large. As many as 700 scales are found in 1 cm of fine wool, whereas coarse wool may have as few as 275 per cm. Fine wool does not have as clear and distinct scales as coarse wool, but they can be identified under high magnification.显微观察下，羊毛纤维的长度显示出鳞片结构。鳞片的大小不同，很小到相当宽大都有。1厘米细羊毛里面可以找到700个鳞片，而粗毛每厘米少到275个。细羊毛没有粗羊毛那样清晰突出的鳞片，但他们可以在高倍镜下辨识出来。 A cross section of wool shows three distinct parts to the fiber. The outer layer, called cuticle, is composed of the scales. These scales are somewhat horny and irregular in shape, and they overlap, with the top pointing towards the tip of the fiber; they are similar to fish scales. The major portion of the fiber is the cortex (composed of cortical cells ); this extends toward the center from the cuticle layer. Cortical cells are long and spindle-shaped and provide fiber strength and elasticity. The cortex accounts for approximately 90 percent of the fiber mass. In the center of the fiber is the medulla. The size of the medulla varies and in fine fibers may be invisible. This is the area through which food reached the fiber during growth, and it contains pigment that gives color to fibers.羊毛的横截面显示出了三个不同部分的纤维。外面那层，称为角质层，由鳞片形成。这些鳞片形状有点棱角，并不规则又互相重叠，由毛根指向毛尖；它们类似鱼鳞。纤维的主要部分是皮质（由皮层细胞构成）；它延伸至角质层的中心。皮质细胞呈长梭形，赋予了纤维一定的强度和弹性。皮质大概占了纤维团的90%。在纤维的中心是中腔。中腔的尺寸不一，细羊毛可能是看不见（中腔）的。这是在纤维生长过程中养分到达了纤维部分，里面包含了给纤维上色的染料。 Wool fibers vary in length from 3.8 to about 38 cm. Most authorities have determined that fine cools are usually from 3.8 to 12.7 cm; medium wool from 6.4 to 15.2 cm; and long (coarse) cools from 12.7 to 38 cm.羊毛纤维长度在3.8到38厘米不等。多数专家已判定，细羊毛通常从3.8到12.7厘米；中毛从6.4到15.2厘米；长（粗）毛从12.7到38厘米。 The width of wool also varies considerably. Fine fibers such as Merino have an average width of about 15 to 17 microns; whereas medium wool averages 24 to 34 microns and coarse wool about 40 microns. Some wool fibers are exceptionally stiff and coarse; these are called Kemp and average about 70 microns in diameter.羊毛的宽度也有很大的差别。细羊毛如美利奴，有约15至17微米的平均宽度；而中羊毛平均为24至34微米和粗羊毛约40微米。有些羊毛纤维非常僵硬和粗糙，这些就是所谓的死毛，平均直径约70微米。 The wool fiber cross section may be nearly circular, but most wool fibers tend to be slightly elliptical or oval in shape. Wool fibers have a natural crimp, a built-in waviness. The crimp increases the elasticity and elongation properties of the fiber and also aids in yarn manufacturing. It is three-dimensional in character; in other words, it not only moves above and below a central axis but also moves to the right and left of the axis.羊毛纤维横截面为近圆形，但大多数羊毛纤维往往形状略呈椭圆形或卵形。羊毛纤维天然卷曲，有内置的波纹。卷曲增加了纤维的弹性和延伸性，也有助于纱线制造。它呈三维结构的；换句话说，它不仅围着纤维轴上下缠绕而且左右缠绕。 There is some luster to wool fibers. Fine and medium wool tends to have more luster than very coarse fibers. Fibers with a high degree of luster are silky in appearance.羊毛纤维有光泽。细中的羊毛往往比较粗的羊毛纤维有光泽。光泽度高的纤维外观光滑。 The color of the natural wool fiber depends on the breed of sheep. Most wool, after scouring, is a yellowish-white or ivory color. Some fibers may be gray, black, tan or brown.天然羊毛纤维的颜色取决于羊的品种。冲刷后，大多数毛，是淡黄色偏白色或象牙色。有些纤维可能是灰色的，黑色的，褐色或棕色。 The tenacity of wool is 1.0 to 1.7 grams per denier when dry; when wet, it drops to 0.7 to 1.5 g/d. Compared with many other fibers, wool is weak, and this weakness restricts the kinds of yarns and fabric constructions that can be used satisfactorily. However, if yarns and fabrics of optimum weight and type are produced, the end-use product will give commendable wear and retain shape and appearance. Fiber properties such as resiliency, elongation, and elastic recovery compensate for the low strength. 羊毛的强度是干燥时1至1.7克/旦；湿润时，它下降到0.7至1.5克/旦。与其他许多纤维相比，羊毛较弱，这一弱点限制了纱线和织物满足人们可用的结构种类。然而，一旦最佳重量和类型的纱线和织物生产出来后，最终使用的产品将会带来超赞的耐磨性，保形性和外观。纤维的性能如回弹性、延伸性和弹性恢复率弥补了其低强度的不足。 Wool has excellent elasticity and extensibility. At standard conditions the fiber will extend between 20 and 40 percent. It may extend more than 70 percent when wet. Recovery is superior. After a 2 percent elongation the fiber has an immediate regain or recovery of 99 percent. Even at 10 percent extension, it has a recovery of well over 50 percent, which is higher than for any other fiber except nylon. 羊毛纤维具有优良的弹性和灵活性。在标准条件下，羊毛纤维能延伸20%至40%之间。潮湿环境下，它可以延伸到70%以上。恢复率超强。施加2%伸长之后，纤维能够立即恢复，恢复率达到99%。甚至在10%的延伸后，它也有50%以上的恢复率，除了尼龙，它比其他任何纤维都要高。 The resiliency of wool is exceptionally good. It will readily spring back into shape after crushing or creasing. However, through the application of heat, moisture and pressure, durable creases or pleats can be put into wool fabrics. This crease or press retention is the result of molecular adjustment and the formation of new cross-linkages in the polymer. Besides resistance to crushing and wrinkling, the excellent resilience of wool fiber gives the fabric its loft, which produces open, porous fabrics with good covering power, or thick, warm fabrics that are light in weight. Wool is very flexible and pliable, so it combines ease of handling and comfort with good shape retention.羊毛的回弹性非常好。它可以在碾压折皱之后恢复原形。然而，通过加热、加湿和施力，持久的折痕或皱纹会在羊毛织物上形成。这种折痕的持久是分子的变动和聚合物中新的交叉链的形成结果。除了抗压抗皱，羊毛纤维优良的回弹性赋予织物活力，这样形成了通气多孔的织物的良好的遮盖力，厚而保暖的植物的重量轻。羊毛非常灵活柔软，所以它结合简易的操作性和良好的保形性于一身。 The standard moisture regain of wool is 13.6 to 16.0 percent. Under saturation conditions, wool will absorb more than 29 percent of its weight in moisture. This ability to absorb is responsible for the comfort of wool in humid, cold atmospheres. As part of the moisture absorption function, wool produces or liberates heat. However, as wet wool begins to dry, the evaporation causes heat to be absorbed by the fiber, and "chilling" may be experienced, though the chilling factor is slowed down as the evaporation rate is reduced. The property of moisture absorption and desorption peculiar to wool and similar hair fibers is called hygroscopic behavior. Wool accepts colors and finishes easily because of its moisture absorption properties.羊毛的标准回潮率为13.6%～16%。饱和条件下，羊毛能吸收其重量29%以上的水分。这种吸收能力，使得羊毛在潮湿、冷气的环境下生存。至于吸湿功能，羊毛产生并释放热量。然而，当湿羊毛开始干燥，蒸发引起的热气被羊毛纤维吸收，尽管当蒸发率降低时致冷因素减缓，但羊毛经历了制冷。羊毛和类似头发纤维的这种吸收湿气和脱浮的特有的性能称为吸湿行为。毛的染色和后整理也因其吸湿性能变得简单容易操作。 Despite the absorption properties of wool, it has an unusual property of exhibiting hydrophobic characteristics. That is, it tends to shed liquid easily and appears not to absorb moisture. The cause is a combination of factors: interfacial surface tension, uniform distribution of pores, and low bulk density. These moisture properties help make wool very desirable for use in a variety of situations where moisture can be a problem to comfort.尽管羊毛具有吸收性能，它也显示出疏水特性的独特性能。那就是说，它往往容易流动液体却不吸收水分。原因是多种因素的结合：界面表面张力，孔隙分布均匀与低的容积密度。这些水分特性使羊毛可以非常理想地使用在各种情况下，水分成为了一个容易解决的问题。 Wool fibers are not dimensionally stable. The structure of the fiber contributes to a shrinking and felting reaction during processing, use and care. This is due, in part, to the scale structure of the fiber. When subjected to heat, moisture, and agitation, the scales tend to pull together and move toward the fiber tip. This property is noticeable in yarns and fabrics and is responsible for both felting and relaxation shrinkage.羊毛纤维没有稳定的尺寸。纤维的结构有助于加工、使用、保养过程中的缩绒和毡缩反应。在某种程度上，这是因为纤维的鳞片结构。当受到加热，加湿和搅拌处理时，鳞片拉在一起指向毛尖。这是纱线和织物的显著性质，决定了毡缩和缩绒回缩率。 Lesson Fourteen Staple Fiber Spinning (1) Staple fibers arrive at the yarn processing plant in large bales. To make yarns, fibers must be of similar length and relatively uniform so that the spun yarn can be of uniform quality. To accomplish this, fibers from a variety of production lots, fields, or animals must be blended together.短纤维用大棉仓送至纺纱加工厂。为了织造纱线，纤维必须长度接近、相对均匀，这样纺出来的纱线才能达到稳定的质量。为了完成这一点，不同生产批号、来自不同产地和动物身上的纤维必须先混合在一起。 Several bales or cartons of fibers are placed in the opening, cleaning, and blending area. Some fibers from each bale or carton are fed into the opener and blender. It is important to separate or "open" the fiber mass to a single fiber state, or as close to that as possible. The opening and blen